The Italia peak (Punto Italia) as seen from a side valley of Cajon del Morado at about 4000 meters. We're on the way down after a bivouac the night before.
Our objective, the San Jose vulcano (5880 meters). The photos show unusually little snow and ice, due to the effects of El Nino, so the locals told us.
The Gordo valley below San Jose. Roberto is pointing out something to Jim. The route goes to the stream seen coming down on the right. The Plantat refuge is around the highest point of the stream. The normal, or tourist, route then continues left under the large central ice field to under the ridge immediately left of the col. Ascend this ridge to the ice field, then to the col, and the top. Four days are needed to ascend (about 1000 meters a day), two to descend. The direct route saves a day going up (there is another little shelter on that route so that no tent needs to taken along). It is much steeper than the normal route, which was already a struggle on the loose rock (scree running could be apopular national sport in Chile!). The snow and ice can be mostly avoided (not a bad idea, see the penitentes below!).
And then there were three! Here we are at the Plantat refuge at 3080 meters.
At about 3500 meters covering myself in factor 44 sun cream, again. We camped 600 meters further up, to the left. The following day we gained the ridge on the left, and went on the left of the large snow field seen in the centre.
So-called penitentes (excellent name, certainly I was made to pay for my sins!), strange parabola-shaped snow formations at our second camp at some 4000 meters.
Our camp at 4185 meters, looking West (towards Santiago and the coast). Behind Jim is the approach valley (Cajon de Maipo, or Maipo valley) where Banos Morales lies. To the right, out of sight, is the Cajon del Morado valley where we acclimatised.
Happy at 5000 meters, our highest point.
Here is our gear list, and a number of observations. Here is some information about high altitude physiology.
